Restaurants

Rose Gray (left) and Ruth Rogers (right), River Cafe, London. Photo: Frances Lang

An elegy for Campanile, LA Weekly. The collective dream that was LA’s food revolution

A love letter to Ann and Franco Taruschio (and the Walnut Tree), The Independent

The Walnut Tree, New York Times

Where you’ll sing for your supper. The Lincoln Steakhouse, Los Angeles Times

When women rule the roast, text for a photo essay with Frances Lang about the women chefs of London

Marco Pierre White: The Screaming Success, The Independent

Euphorium and Jeremy Lee, The Independent

 

Margot Clayton, The French House, Soho. Photo: Frances Lang

After working as a restaurant listings editor in the early days of the Independent newspaper, a stint as the restaurant critic began in 1989 after the death of the paper’s inimitable and beloved founding food writer and restaurant critic Jeremy Round. There were too many reviews done on a nearly weekly basis over the next seven years to link. This page links a few samples along with a handful of pieces written in the US on a guest-columnist basis. The photographs, by Frances Lang, are from the Independent series “When women rule the roast” (text linked above) and a piece for Country Life on work of Italian chef Franco Taruschio with Welsh cocklers.

Walnut Tree chef and co-owner Franco Truschino (center) harvesting cockles in Wales. Photo: Frances Lang

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